The ABC critic chooses his favorite restaurants in San Sebastián and surroundings
Gipuzkoan cuisine occupies the first line in Spain, with an unbeatable offer that we analyze name by name
For many years, Gipuzkoan cuisine occupies the first line in Spain. San Sebastián and its surroundings have an unbeatable gastronomic offer, both in avant-garde cuisine and in traditional recipes. Guipuzcoans are Juan Mari Arzak and Pedro Subijana , the two chefs who most influenced, thirty years ago, in the renewal of Spanish cuisine that has led it to world leadership. And from Gipuzkoa is Martín Berasategui , the Spanish chef with the most Michelin stars. Also Hilario Arbelaitz , the best example of well-updated classicism.
We started our tour in the oldest, Arzak. Balance, continuous innovation and unbeatable product are the three keys for this restaurant to stay on top for three decades. Juan Mari Arzak , with the fundamental support of his daughter Elena and her research team, never ceases to amaze at each visit. The other fundamental axis of Gipuzkoan cuisine is found in Lasarte , six kilometers from the capital. There is the restaurant of Martín Berasategui, a master chef and a man endowed with enormous technical precision and unlimited creativity. Complex elaborations but with well-defined flavors. The third tri-steeple of Guipúzcoa is found in a privileged location on top of Mount Igueldo, hanging over the sea. AkelarreIt is Pedro Subijana's restaurant, a nonconformist who never tires of creating, innovating and surprising his customers.
Another essential visit passes through Oyarzun, where the Arbelaitz family settled with their restaurant Zuberoa . Hilario Arbelaitz, a serious man with little media coverage, has been able to impeccably modernize the farmhouse kitchen with a magnificent product, dominating the cooking points and preparing incredible sauces. Not far away, in Renteria, Andoni Luis Adúriz is in charge of Mugaritz . His is a very personal cuisine, outside of all known canons, provocative at times, but always interesting. In the current kitchen line we cannot forget Íñigo Lavado, in Irún , a chef with excellent training and a lot of personality. Nor to Rubén Trincado whose restaurant El Mirador de UlíaIt is in an unbeatable location, on top of the mountain of the same name with impressive views of San Sebastián. Trincado revises the Basque tradition but opens up to other cultures. Great product cuisine, with powerful flavors and impeccable points. Mention also goes to Aizpea Oihaneder and Xabier Díez , who in their new location in the capital continue to offer their fresh and light cuisine, very attached to seasonal produce, but without renouncing avant-garde elements. Halfway between tradition and modernity, in Fuenterrabía, Gorka Txapartegui runs Alameda , the family restaurant opened by his grandparents in 1942 and which has a Michelin star. Linked to the «Slow Food» movement, his is a very academic cuisine, with strong Basque roots and light, modern presentations.
The counterpoint to the avant-garde is provided by traditional restaurants, with their traditional cuisine. In the capital, a must stop in Urola, in the Old Town . Pablo Loureiro is in charge of one of the best raw material restaurants not only in the city but in the entire province. He also manages with success a grill from which red meats come out just right or some spectacular grilled cocochas. Its philosophy is to use the best raw material and treat it with care, respecting it to the maximum. Wine lovers have Rekondo as their meeting point , with its classic cuisine and, above all, with one of the best wineries in Spain, an authentic wine museum.
The other great aspect of Gipuzkoan cuisine is grills. For fish, you have to go to Guetaria, where both Elkano and Kaia-Kaipe , in the port, put the best Cantabrian fish on the coals, giving them an impeccable point. From hake crocs to large turbot, a true marine enjoyment. And for carnivores, the epicenter is in Tolosa , the town where the grilled beef chops began to be made. There are several good steakhouses there, but our favorites are Casa Julián , where maestro Matías Gorrotxategui is still in charge, and Casa Nicolás , with another great barbecue, Xabi Ruiz.
Addresses
Arzak. José Elósegui, 273. San Sebastián.
Martín Berasategui. Loidi, 4. Lasarte.
Akelarre. Paseo Padre Orcolaga, 56. San Sebastián.
Zuberoa. Barri Iturriotz, s / n. Oyarzun.
Mugaritz. Aldura Aldea, 20. Renteria.
Íñigo Washed. Fairgrounds. Av. Iparralde, 43. Irún.
Ulía viewpoint. Paseo de Ulía, 193. San Sebastián.
Xarma. Miguel Imaz, 1. San Sebastián.
Mall. Minasorroeta, 1. Fuenterrabía.
Urola House. Fermín Calbetón, 20. San Sebastián.
Rekondo. Paseo de Igueldo, 57. San Sebastián.
Kaia-Kaipe. General Arnao, 4. Guetaria.
Elcano. Herrerieta, 2. Guetaria.
Nicolas House. Zumalacárregui, 7. Tolosa.
Julian House. Santa Clara, 6. Tolosa.
